Every time we pack up and leave a place I think that we can’t possibly find anywhere nicer and yet each new place is equally lovely and so fabulous. We are so lucky to be making this trip where we don’t have to choose one place over another due to lack of time but can experience such a plethora of wonderful places and fantastic experiences.
We had decided to give ourselves a treat and go 4 star for a visit to the St Tropez region. We tend to stick to 2 and 3 stars since time is on our side and we didn’t want to blow the budget, but after consulting our trusty hotel directories and a number of websites we decided that this region really had to be done in some style. We didn’t go totally mad though and opted for St Maxime, across the gulf from St Tropez itself and picked the most basic room in the Hotel Belle Aurore. We have been absolutely wowed by the place, which was well worth the extravagance, since it is right on the sea, overlooking the bay with the most incredible views. Our room, though small, has terracotta tiled terrace, at least twice the size of the room with a full sea view, loungers and a table and chairs. The car has been left in the car park to rest as it takes just a few minutes to walk into St Maxime and apart from eating and drinking we prefer to chill on our terrace or swim in the infinity pool, immediately above the waves. We have both ventured into the sea below the pool but it’s a bit rocky and decidedly cold (John says it’s freezing but he is exaggerating!)
We have a beautiful Labrador staying next door and I got quite a surprise when I was moving the sun beds into the shade to be greeted by a furry face poking through the divider from next door to see what was going on! Dogs are very much the in thing wherever you go though it makes a change to see one of a regular size which doesn’t need to be carried round in a bag or wheeled in a shopping trolley (both of which I’ve seen in the last 24 hours!)
Truly this is our own piece of paradise – when we walked into the room and saw the view through the window of the terrace and the sea beyond I thought it was a picture on the wall. Tonight we will have dinner in the hotel restaurant which feels like a ship, being curved and having full windows over the sea to add to the treat and the overall sense of being in heaven – what lucky people we are.
Sunday, 29 August 2010
The cote d'azur
Despite the loveliness of the setting we couldn’t stay so close to the Cote d’Azur and not pay a visit to its famous towns and coast line. I was afraid we weren’t getting the best of Grasse as the first morning we spend a very hot and frustrating time trying to find the obligatory laundry, along with somewhere to park. We eventually found one, though they couldn’t get it back to us till Friday, which resulted in an emergency trip to Galeries Lafayette in Cannes for a couple more bras! We also managed to get the car washed as it was looking a little less shiny after such a long trip. Jobs done we then wandered round the lovely old town and found a nice cafe for large salads and a pichet of Provencal rose. We paid a quick visit to the Fragonard perfume factory though the shop was crammed with tourists so I didn’t bother to buy anything.
We drove down into Cannes, which despite the traffic and the haut saison crowds was still impressive. We managed some shopping – the aforementioned underwear, not quite as good value as M&S but close enough and contact lens solution and other necessary toiletries. We walked along the Croissette and up through the old town to the castle and enjoyed another huge salad and bottle of the local rose (a chateau Minuty, which we used to drink in Abu Dhabi and still cheaper despite Cannes’ prices). Then it was back to our eyrie and a good long swim in the fabulous pool. The next day we went to Nice, though failed to find the Route Napoleon down into the town and had to trail along the coast road from Antibes. We admired the yachts in the port and John was delighted to see that the restaurant (L’Ane Rouge), where he had had dinner with Sir Roger Sargent in the 70s when he was a PhD student and Roger his supervisor on his first overseas conference, was still there. We walked along the Promenade des Anglais and through the old town where we found an authentic local restaurant for lunch – Beignets and Farcis a la Provencal followed by Mouse au Chocolat and Crème Carmel. On the way back we managed to find the right road but still got lost trying to get through Grasse but at least we didn’t need any dinner.
Even though it was very crowded and the traffic incredibly busy we very much enjoyed this corner of France and had plenty of opportunity to pose with the top down and get the best out of the car, though it has acquired a mysterious scratch on the rear bumper. We packed up on Friday, as the hotel was full and couldn’t accommodate us for our usual five nights, but we were only heading for Saint Maxime, in the Gulf of St Tropez, so not too far this time. We even managed to pack in such a way as to allow us to make the drive to this part of the coast with the roof open, though when I picked up the laundry on the way that proved difficult to stow without resembling a mobile dry cleaners!
We drove down into Cannes, which despite the traffic and the haut saison crowds was still impressive. We managed some shopping – the aforementioned underwear, not quite as good value as M&S but close enough and contact lens solution and other necessary toiletries. We walked along the Croissette and up through the old town to the castle and enjoyed another huge salad and bottle of the local rose (a chateau Minuty, which we used to drink in Abu Dhabi and still cheaper despite Cannes’ prices). Then it was back to our eyrie and a good long swim in the fabulous pool. The next day we went to Nice, though failed to find the Route Napoleon down into the town and had to trail along the coast road from Antibes. We admired the yachts in the port and John was delighted to see that the restaurant (L’Ane Rouge), where he had had dinner with Sir Roger Sargent in the 70s when he was a PhD student and Roger his supervisor on his first overseas conference, was still there. We walked along the Promenade des Anglais and through the old town where we found an authentic local restaurant for lunch – Beignets and Farcis a la Provencal followed by Mouse au Chocolat and Crème Carmel. On the way back we managed to find the right road but still got lost trying to get through Grasse but at least we didn’t need any dinner.
Even though it was very crowded and the traffic incredibly busy we very much enjoyed this corner of France and had plenty of opportunity to pose with the top down and get the best out of the car, though it has acquired a mysterious scratch on the rear bumper. We packed up on Friday, as the hotel was full and couldn’t accommodate us for our usual five nights, but we were only heading for Saint Maxime, in the Gulf of St Tropez, so not too far this time. We even managed to pack in such a way as to allow us to make the drive to this part of the coast with the roof open, though when I picked up the laundry on the way that proved difficult to stow without resembling a mobile dry cleaners!
Heading for Provence
It took us a whole day to get from Cahors to Cabris and I vowed that we should look more closely at the Atlas in order to break up our travelling, though this is the first really long drive we’ve done. Nevertheless, the joy of this trip is that we’re in no hurry to get somewhere so we can create manageable drives, preferably no more than 3 or 4 hours maximum. We went cross country to Millau; the sat nav seemed to want to take us on a slightly different route, though I don’t know where since this was by far the most direct. We chose it because I was really keen to see the Millau Viaduct as it has always amazed me. I was not disappointed, the mist and rain we’d driven through in the hills near Rodez cleared to give us a wonderful, sunny day, so we saw the viaduct in all its glory and it is quite magnificent. I believe it was designed by Norman Foster, a very different commission from Masdar City but equally stunning. We stopped to photograph it from the northern side, since driving across it really looks much like the rest of the motorway, except for the pylons – you get no impression of the height.
The rest of the trip was on the motorway – I’d done the first couple of hours but John did all but the last one and a half hours, since, although I’m fine with driving on the right, I do find it hard to get used to being on the wrong side of the car! Once we came off the motorway we climbed up and up into the hills above the Cote d’Azur till it felt like the road couldn’t possibly carry on any higher. We were well rewarded for the effort when we checked into the Hotel Horizon at Cabris, a stunning medieval village, perched on a hill about 7km (vertically) from Grasse. The view from our bedroom and bathroom down the hill and towards the Esterel mountains, the coast and the huge Lac du Caspien, was absolutely stunning. Many times during our 4 night stay we were above the cloud, giving a beautiful but strange effect. Cabris itself was so lovely, every place seems to be so picturesque and charming and somehow even lovelier than the place before. How does one country manage to have quite so many charming towns, villages and countryside, it seems that France has more than its fair share of beautiful places!
The hotel itself would not have won any prizes for friendliness but the beauty of the scenery, the pool perched on the hillside below and the well kept rooms more than made up for it and Cabris afforded a number of very decent restaurants though it was a shame not to have a place to eat in such a fabulous location. The hillside around was dotted with desirable villas with pools and terraces and the Presse in the village had the same day’s copy of the Guardian so I guess it’s another popular spot for very well heeled English ex pats or second homers. I can certainly see why.
The rest of the trip was on the motorway – I’d done the first couple of hours but John did all but the last one and a half hours, since, although I’m fine with driving on the right, I do find it hard to get used to being on the wrong side of the car! Once we came off the motorway we climbed up and up into the hills above the Cote d’Azur till it felt like the road couldn’t possibly carry on any higher. We were well rewarded for the effort when we checked into the Hotel Horizon at Cabris, a stunning medieval village, perched on a hill about 7km (vertically) from Grasse. The view from our bedroom and bathroom down the hill and towards the Esterel mountains, the coast and the huge Lac du Caspien, was absolutely stunning. Many times during our 4 night stay we were above the cloud, giving a beautiful but strange effect. Cabris itself was so lovely, every place seems to be so picturesque and charming and somehow even lovelier than the place before. How does one country manage to have quite so many charming towns, villages and countryside, it seems that France has more than its fair share of beautiful places!
The hotel itself would not have won any prizes for friendliness but the beauty of the scenery, the pool perched on the hillside below and the well kept rooms more than made up for it and Cabris afforded a number of very decent restaurants though it was a shame not to have a place to eat in such a fabulous location. The hillside around was dotted with desirable villas with pools and terraces and the Presse in the village had the same day’s copy of the Guardian so I guess it’s another popular spot for very well heeled English ex pats or second homers. I can certainly see why.
A lovely weekend in Cahors
We headed from Moncrabeau to Cahors, a beautiful drive through the lower Tarn and Lot valleys. Finally the sun made a proper appearance and it got really hot. Cahors is a really beautiful town captured in a U of the river lot so as to make it almost an island and which allows for endless river frontage and beautiful views. Our hotel was a modern building on the opposite bank from the town, The Chartreuse. Nothing much to look at but then you don’t have to look at it from the inside and we had a huge window and a little balcony overlooking the river. It won the prize for the best facilities so far – a bath and a proper shower which is almost unheard of as you seem to only be able to have one or the other! The aforementioned balcony and view as well as air conditioning, a proper double bed and a fridge. We were very impressed, especially as it was also the cheapest at only 90 Euros a night. Had it had a mirror it would have been a full house – not that I have a check list or anything!
We really enjoyed wandering round the medieval town and admiring the incredible Pont Valentre which has been impressively restored. The Saturday market was also amazing and, having had a request for honey from Sue, J’s former PA, we were at last able to buy something, which was great. We went on a boat trip up the river to admire the town from the water and experience going through the lock. We also found a great restaurant for dinner on Saturday night – Le Marche, which offered an interesting set menu, including Foie Gras, since Quercy is very much Foie Gras country.
We were very glad of the excellent pool to cool off, though on the Saturday it had been rather taken over by a family party who were at the hotel for some occasion and all the children had decamped to the pool for the afternoon. Although the hotel reckoned it was only 22 degrees in the water it felt a lot warmer than Keith’s pool but maybe it was the sunshine!
On Sunday night we headed off to St Antonin Noble Val, another adorable medieval town, this time on the banks of the Aveyron. It took about 45 minutes to drive over and we met Pam, my Godmother and the two John’s who have a converted farmhouse and barn in a beautiful spot South of Cahors on a hillside with a pool and garden. We had a lovely dinner together and caught up on everyone’s news and answered lots of questions about life in Abu Dhabi. The restaurant was great, with super food and a terrace overlooking the river and the bridge. It was a very convivial evening though we had to drive back in the dark, which is rather tricky as we have been unable to alter our headlights, since the instruction manual gives us the method for a 5 Series. Having to switch to side lights every time a car came in the other direction was a bit nerve wracking! We also replenished our travel library when Pam kindly brought us a bag of books to borrow as we are getting a bit low on the ones we brought with us. It was great to see them again and it was a shame we had to move on without visiting them at home but they had been rather full of family visitors and we had something of an epic journey the next day.
Altogether we really enjoyed Cahors, though we didn’t try any of the black wine, which we didn’t fancy so much in the heat and after the incredible Clarets we’d been drinking at Keith’s. We did have a local rose though, which was very nice indeed. It’s certainly a part of the world I would be happy to spend more time in.
We really enjoyed wandering round the medieval town and admiring the incredible Pont Valentre which has been impressively restored. The Saturday market was also amazing and, having had a request for honey from Sue, J’s former PA, we were at last able to buy something, which was great. We went on a boat trip up the river to admire the town from the water and experience going through the lock. We also found a great restaurant for dinner on Saturday night – Le Marche, which offered an interesting set menu, including Foie Gras, since Quercy is very much Foie Gras country.
We were very glad of the excellent pool to cool off, though on the Saturday it had been rather taken over by a family party who were at the hotel for some occasion and all the children had decamped to the pool for the afternoon. Although the hotel reckoned it was only 22 degrees in the water it felt a lot warmer than Keith’s pool but maybe it was the sunshine!
On Sunday night we headed off to St Antonin Noble Val, another adorable medieval town, this time on the banks of the Aveyron. It took about 45 minutes to drive over and we met Pam, my Godmother and the two John’s who have a converted farmhouse and barn in a beautiful spot South of Cahors on a hillside with a pool and garden. We had a lovely dinner together and caught up on everyone’s news and answered lots of questions about life in Abu Dhabi. The restaurant was great, with super food and a terrace overlooking the river and the bridge. It was a very convivial evening though we had to drive back in the dark, which is rather tricky as we have been unable to alter our headlights, since the instruction manual gives us the method for a 5 Series. Having to switch to side lights every time a car came in the other direction was a bit nerve wracking! We also replenished our travel library when Pam kindly brought us a bag of books to borrow as we are getting a bit low on the ones we brought with us. It was great to see them again and it was a shame we had to move on without visiting them at home but they had been rather full of family visitors and we had something of an epic journey the next day.
Altogether we really enjoyed Cahors, though we didn’t try any of the black wine, which we didn’t fancy so much in the heat and after the incredible Clarets we’d been drinking at Keith’s. We did have a local rose though, which was very nice indeed. It’s certainly a part of the world I would be happy to spend more time in.
Tuesday, 24 August 2010
Fun with friends in Moncrabeau
Photographic proof of what sensible grown ups will get up to on holiday when provided with a pool and blow up armchairs - luckily as I take the pictures you don't get to see me pouffe surfing! The dogs were unimpressed by this activity and Albi took the opportunity to grab a lounger! John helps out with the cooking at the barbecue and all of us enjoy a relaxed dinner in the garden.
Pictures of Bordeaux wine country
St Emilion village and a couple of pictures of us enjoying the product of all this hard work over a long lunch in Cadillac as well as a picture of the vines growing in Loupiac.
Friday, 20 August 2010
Not completely idle
In case my last post gave the impression that we spent our time in Moncrabeau doing absolutely nothing I thought I should add a few activities which might demonstrate that we weren't completely idle!
On one cloudy day we went into Nerac which is such a pretty town and walked with the dogs along the river, admiring the boats and the historic bath house of Henri 1V. However, we did feel that such effort needed to be followed by a substantial lunch outside in the old square!
Keith convinced us that the pool was 25 degrees and although I am a fan of cold water I think that was generous. The blow up pool armchairs were great for some entertaining games of bumper pool chairs and I managed to perfect the art of balancing on a blow up pouffe, though with my bottom in the air, not terribly elegant. Great fun all the same! J did make it into the pool though not for very long, claiming it was too cold.
I was also able to indulge my hobby for washing and ironing - great joy to stay in a house for a few days and use the washing machine and the iron to try and set out on the next leg of our journey with a fresh set of clothes.
We also walked a little though mainly around the village and along the river so I don't think we'll be getting any prizes for energetic activity. Such a perfect spot with such lovely friends just invites indolence and I'm sure it was good for our state of mind if not for our waist lines!
On one cloudy day we went into Nerac which is such a pretty town and walked with the dogs along the river, admiring the boats and the historic bath house of Henri 1V. However, we did feel that such effort needed to be followed by a substantial lunch outside in the old square!
Keith convinced us that the pool was 25 degrees and although I am a fan of cold water I think that was generous. The blow up pool armchairs were great for some entertaining games of bumper pool chairs and I managed to perfect the art of balancing on a blow up pouffe, though with my bottom in the air, not terribly elegant. Great fun all the same! J did make it into the pool though not for very long, claiming it was too cold.
I was also able to indulge my hobby for washing and ironing - great joy to stay in a house for a few days and use the washing machine and the iron to try and set out on the next leg of our journey with a fresh set of clothes.
We also walked a little though mainly around the village and along the river so I don't think we'll be getting any prizes for energetic activity. Such a perfect spot with such lovely friends just invites indolence and I'm sure it was good for our state of mind if not for our waist lines!
Thursday, 19 August 2010
A chilled week in Gascony
We left Cadillac and headed through 'France Profund' to stay with our friends Keith and Liz, in Moncrabeau. An amazing drive with only the road we were on showing on the sat nav and nothing else around. We did pass by a group of 'chasseurs' who seemed to be perilously close to the road, though they were all wearing red hats, so premsumably they were in no danger of shooting each other! We arrived to rain - this has certainly not been a good summer for this part of the world. but since Keith had cooked an amazing lunch, accompanied by all kinds of fantastic Bordeaux, the state of the weather was pretty immaterial.
Moncrabeau sits on a small hill between Nerac and Condom and is delightfully pretty in every direction. The house is lovely and the garden even lovelier with a great pool - though a little on the chilly side due to the weather so J has so far only sat on the edge of it rather than venturing in. The village have worked out a 'Circuit des Menteurs' with plaques around the place telling you stories about the history of the village and like the Radio Four programme you have to work out which are the fibs! Liz and Keith live on 'Place de Fort' which, according to the plaque was originally 'Place de Port' until the land slipped away leaving the river and the boats about a hundred feet lower down! The view from our bedroom window in the morning across the valley is sublime. I have managed to run one day, out into the countryside though on other mornings there's just been too much going on - or maybe it was having to sample some of Keith's cellar, which runs to many hundreds of bottles, alongside some nice Bordeaux pink. I've also discovered a new drink, surprising at my age to find something I've never tried - called Floc, it's an 18% proof.clear and slightly fruity drink which slips down very pleasantly after a meal. We have also eaten royally with the usual round of delicious French bread, salad, cheese, barbecued meat and fruit. John has acquired a new nick name 'Two Puddings Perkins' so he was in his element. Having access to a freezer we were able to choose ice cream to take back to Keith and Liz's so we added Creme Brulee and Caramel Au Beaurre Sale to their already well stocked freezer!
Liz and Keith had another couple staying, Ros and Viv, who were charming and added to the fun. All six of us enjoyed each others company and mainly lounged around having long lunches and even longer suppers and sitting by the pool or in the 'inside out room' when the weather wasn't so good. Only poor Keith had to work from time to time, being an international businessman of standing. Liz and Keith were such benevolent hosts. Despite having four extra people in their house and both being under the weather following a bug picked up during Cowes week they were unflappable and delightful. Albi, the lurcher and Charlie, the cairn added to the entertainment, though Chsrlie has to go for an operation to remove a tumour, though hopefully is unaware of the annoyance to come and having to wear a lampshade for a fortnight.
We got a taste of French expat life, since, not content with a house full of guests, they also invited friends round for dinner on a couple of occasions to add to the entertainment value and we went and visited one couple.
All in all it was a fabulous few days and J looked loads better by the end of it - hopefully recovering slowly from the hard work and trials of life in Abu Dhabi. I felt so sorry for Ros and Viv having to head home via the airport when we were leaving but for Cahors, just a short drive away and the rest of our adventure.
Moncrabeau sits on a small hill between Nerac and Condom and is delightfully pretty in every direction. The house is lovely and the garden even lovelier with a great pool - though a little on the chilly side due to the weather so J has so far only sat on the edge of it rather than venturing in. The village have worked out a 'Circuit des Menteurs' with plaques around the place telling you stories about the history of the village and like the Radio Four programme you have to work out which are the fibs! Liz and Keith live on 'Place de Fort' which, according to the plaque was originally 'Place de Port' until the land slipped away leaving the river and the boats about a hundred feet lower down! The view from our bedroom window in the morning across the valley is sublime. I have managed to run one day, out into the countryside though on other mornings there's just been too much going on - or maybe it was having to sample some of Keith's cellar, which runs to many hundreds of bottles, alongside some nice Bordeaux pink. I've also discovered a new drink, surprising at my age to find something I've never tried - called Floc, it's an 18% proof.clear and slightly fruity drink which slips down very pleasantly after a meal. We have also eaten royally with the usual round of delicious French bread, salad, cheese, barbecued meat and fruit. John has acquired a new nick name 'Two Puddings Perkins' so he was in his element. Having access to a freezer we were able to choose ice cream to take back to Keith and Liz's so we added Creme Brulee and Caramel Au Beaurre Sale to their already well stocked freezer!
Liz and Keith had another couple staying, Ros and Viv, who were charming and added to the fun. All six of us enjoyed each others company and mainly lounged around having long lunches and even longer suppers and sitting by the pool or in the 'inside out room' when the weather wasn't so good. Only poor Keith had to work from time to time, being an international businessman of standing. Liz and Keith were such benevolent hosts. Despite having four extra people in their house and both being under the weather following a bug picked up during Cowes week they were unflappable and delightful. Albi, the lurcher and Charlie, the cairn added to the entertainment, though Chsrlie has to go for an operation to remove a tumour, though hopefully is unaware of the annoyance to come and having to wear a lampshade for a fortnight.
We got a taste of French expat life, since, not content with a house full of guests, they also invited friends round for dinner on a couple of occasions to add to the entertainment value and we went and visited one couple.
All in all it was a fabulous few days and J looked loads better by the end of it - hopefully recovering slowly from the hard work and trials of life in Abu Dhabi. I felt so sorry for Ros and Viv having to head home via the airport when we were leaving but for Cahors, just a short drive away and the rest of our adventure.
Saturday, 14 August 2010
A quirky hotel in Cadillac
The hotel in Cadillac is a funny little place but very comfortable and in a fantastic location. It’s just a short walk into the village which has a couple of really nice restaurants where we’ve enjoyed lunch and dinner. Cadillac has everything you could possibly want and the Saturday market left me longing to buy food and vegetables to take home and cook – one of the difficulties of staying in a hotel! We went up to the Maison du Vin and tasted some of the local desert wine which is so light and fruity and we managed to make just a few purchases. It even has the necessary laundrette where the lady did the ironing for us as well as the washing.
The hotel is a fairly modern building with a great view of the chateau and a pleasant garden and field at the back. What I fail to understand is how they put a hotel in such an attractive place but decide not to put any sensible windows in the rooms so that you can’t actually see anything from your room unless you hang out of the window! Still it is very well furnished and has a nice bathroom. The staff are not terribly chatty but the grey parrot which sits in reception makes up for it by whistling away most of the time and even manages a passably ‘hello’! There are also 5 little deer who live in the field at the back and occasionally pass by. They may pass by quite often but due to the lack of a sensible window it’s a bit hard to tell.
The pool here is wonderful – really big, though unheated so it takes a big breath to get in, but after that it’s great for lengths which are becoming increasingly necessary with all the large lunches and fine wine. I think we were a bit spoiled at the Tremblaye in the food department as the restaurant here is nice but not in the same league. We’ve had a couple of nice meals but after that preferred to go out. We have a feeling the chef might be on holiday as there isn’t much of a selection and I nearly burned my mouth on some fish – unusual for monkfish to need to be quite that hot!
We solved this week’s travel related problem when the travel kettle started smoking and John drove round a number of supermarkets till we found a new one in LeClerc. Carrefour could sell you all manner of unnecessary electrical devices including blood pressure monitors (not saying that’s totally unnecessary but would you go to a supermarket to buy one?!), citrus presses and yoghurt makers but you could only buy a kettle in a set with a toaster and a coffee maker. The travel kettle is, I’m afraid an absolute essential, as we’re too mean to pay over 20 Euros for a coffee and a croissant in the hotels so we need our hot drink in the morning and a cuppa at five o’clock. I have my provisions bag with tea, coffee, sugar and mini milk – sad I know but that’s the British for you!
The hotel is a fairly modern building with a great view of the chateau and a pleasant garden and field at the back. What I fail to understand is how they put a hotel in such an attractive place but decide not to put any sensible windows in the rooms so that you can’t actually see anything from your room unless you hang out of the window! Still it is very well furnished and has a nice bathroom. The staff are not terribly chatty but the grey parrot which sits in reception makes up for it by whistling away most of the time and even manages a passably ‘hello’! There are also 5 little deer who live in the field at the back and occasionally pass by. They may pass by quite often but due to the lack of a sensible window it’s a bit hard to tell.
The pool here is wonderful – really big, though unheated so it takes a big breath to get in, but after that it’s great for lengths which are becoming increasingly necessary with all the large lunches and fine wine. I think we were a bit spoiled at the Tremblaye in the food department as the restaurant here is nice but not in the same league. We’ve had a couple of nice meals but after that preferred to go out. We have a feeling the chef might be on holiday as there isn’t much of a selection and I nearly burned my mouth on some fish – unusual for monkfish to need to be quite that hot!
We solved this week’s travel related problem when the travel kettle started smoking and John drove round a number of supermarkets till we found a new one in LeClerc. Carrefour could sell you all manner of unnecessary electrical devices including blood pressure monitors (not saying that’s totally unnecessary but would you go to a supermarket to buy one?!), citrus presses and yoghurt makers but you could only buy a kettle in a set with a toaster and a coffee maker. The travel kettle is, I’m afraid an absolute essential, as we’re too mean to pay over 20 Euros for a coffee and a croissant in the hotels so we need our hot drink in the morning and a cuppa at five o’clock. I have my provisions bag with tea, coffee, sugar and mini milk – sad I know but that’s the British for you!
Claret Country
A very pleasant 6 days in Cadillac so far. It's a bit like enjoying a band or a group for years and listening to CDs and then seeing them live coming here. Having enjoyed so many delicious wines from the Bordeaux region it's really exciting to actually see the grapes growing in the fields and see the chateaux, which look just as they do on the wine labels.
Cadillac itself is right on the banks of the Garonne and surrounded by vineyards. The local appellation is a delicious dessert wine, similar but at the same time different to Sauternes and Barsac, which are just the other side of the river. We took at walk along the Garonne on our first morning which was sunny and warm and looked at all the little fishing huts with platforms over the river. We walked to Loupiac, which is also famous for dessert wine. Such a pretty village but absolutely no life at all apart from barking dogs which felt strange and no shop or bar. It felt odd walking round the deserted, picture book place.
We took a drive over to St Emilion, which is a beautiful medieval village set on a hilltop. You could see the vines growing from the chalky soil which I can taste in the wine even now! It was pretty busy with tourists but we managed to find a lovely little restaurant for lunch and a flight of local wines. There was also a fabulous looking 4 star hotel at the top of the hill overlooking the village with prices to match which I wouldn’t mind coming back and trying one day!
Yesterday we went up to the Medoc, the other side of Bordeaux, which also felt like a pilgrimage. John has had a case of Chateau Haut Batailly aging in his mother’s shed for some years and we just started drinking it before we went to Abu Dhabi. I was very sorry to leave it behind, though of course it isn’t going off. Anyway it was great to see the vineyards and the others of this very famous area. We had lunch in Pauillac itself, a pretty port, despite Lonely Planet being rude about it and calling it muddy! St Estephe was particularly pretty, out near the mouth of the estuary. It seems to a very quiet time for the wine producers though with many of them looking very shut up. Presumably they take a break before the grape harvest starts and the work begins again for another year.
The weather has been extremely mixed – sometimes sunny and sometimes cloudy with occasional rain. We still find such things a novelty after the heat of Abu Dhabi but it must be very frustrating if you’d come for the sun.
One of the rainy days we went into Bordeaux, which is a very grand city indeed and previously I’d only seen it as one of the finishing stages for the Tour De France. Quite an edgy place as well with beggars and rough areas as well as designer shopping and great restaurants. I took the chance to stock up at Galleries Lafayette on some make up and John bought me two cool running watches – digital with funky rubber bracelets (2 for 10 Euros as a summer bargain!)
Overall this is such a pretty place with medieval hill villages and vineyards everywhere and calm about it. We keep noticing the ‘A Vendre’ notices and wondering – but no plans to purchase a pied a terre just yet!
Cadillac itself is right on the banks of the Garonne and surrounded by vineyards. The local appellation is a delicious dessert wine, similar but at the same time different to Sauternes and Barsac, which are just the other side of the river. We took at walk along the Garonne on our first morning which was sunny and warm and looked at all the little fishing huts with platforms over the river. We walked to Loupiac, which is also famous for dessert wine. Such a pretty village but absolutely no life at all apart from barking dogs which felt strange and no shop or bar. It felt odd walking round the deserted, picture book place.
We took a drive over to St Emilion, which is a beautiful medieval village set on a hilltop. You could see the vines growing from the chalky soil which I can taste in the wine even now! It was pretty busy with tourists but we managed to find a lovely little restaurant for lunch and a flight of local wines. There was also a fabulous looking 4 star hotel at the top of the hill overlooking the village with prices to match which I wouldn’t mind coming back and trying one day!
Yesterday we went up to the Medoc, the other side of Bordeaux, which also felt like a pilgrimage. John has had a case of Chateau Haut Batailly aging in his mother’s shed for some years and we just started drinking it before we went to Abu Dhabi. I was very sorry to leave it behind, though of course it isn’t going off. Anyway it was great to see the vineyards and the others of this very famous area. We had lunch in Pauillac itself, a pretty port, despite Lonely Planet being rude about it and calling it muddy! St Estephe was particularly pretty, out near the mouth of the estuary. It seems to a very quiet time for the wine producers though with many of them looking very shut up. Presumably they take a break before the grape harvest starts and the work begins again for another year.
The weather has been extremely mixed – sometimes sunny and sometimes cloudy with occasional rain. We still find such things a novelty after the heat of Abu Dhabi but it must be very frustrating if you’d come for the sun.
One of the rainy days we went into Bordeaux, which is a very grand city indeed and previously I’d only seen it as one of the finishing stages for the Tour De France. Quite an edgy place as well with beggars and rough areas as well as designer shopping and great restaurants. I took the chance to stock up at Galleries Lafayette on some make up and John bought me two cool running watches – digital with funky rubber bracelets (2 for 10 Euros as a summer bargain!)
Overall this is such a pretty place with medieval hill villages and vineyards everywhere and calm about it. We keep noticing the ‘A Vendre’ notices and wondering – but no plans to purchase a pied a terre just yet!
Thursday, 12 August 2010
Picture gallery of Brittany and Tremblaye
A picture of the lovely pool from our bedroom window high up in the chateau and a picture of the chateau itself - I had to wait quite a while to get just the right amount of sunshine on it as without the sun it could look at bit forbidding.
John up on the hill looking down on Saumur and the Loire.
Pictures of Brignogan bay and the Plage du Phare. I realised afterwards that for those people interested in seeing that Brignogan hadn't changed much they wouldn't really want to see me standing in front of the view so many apologies. Sorry there aren't more pictures but it was raining quite hard!
Sunday, 8 August 2010
Saumur and the Loire Valley
After a day wandering round Cholet, which is a very elegant town though very quiet as the whole population seemed to have disappeared for their August holiday, we headed for Saumur and the Loire. Cholet afforded us a very pleasant lunch and a helpful laundry who washed a huge bag of clothes for 10 Euros (I know any Chambers readers will have been worrying about this aspect of our travels!)
We drove with the top down into the cloud - we seem to be right on the edge of the weather front dividing North and South, so had to give up in the end and put the roof up! It would have been rude not to visit at least one of the many Caves and we picked Louis Grenelle which was great. The caves themselves were in the hollowed out tunnels under the town and a chilly 12 degrees all year. I managed the French guide really well which pleased me as I find the French TV quite hard to understand though J is fine with it. The guide explained how the sparkling wine is made and we viewed thousands of bottles busy fermenting, then being turned to allow the residue to collect in the neck. Amazingly they then freeze them and remove the metal caps with the residue attached and put a cork in. Of course we had to taste some and bought a bottle of a very delicious dry white and some glasses, though without a fridge I'm not sure we'll get it cold enough to drink. We wandered by the river and then up to the castle before taking a scenic drive along the banks. The Sat Nav was determined to take us back on the motorway but we managed to ignore it and trundle along a more ordinary (and free) road instead.
On Saturday we decided to visit Noirmoutier - famous for its salt production and a favourite of Mum and Dad's from their holidays in France. I had a go at driving which was easier than I thought - I'm more used to driving on the right than the left though it's strange being on the wrong side of the car. Being Saturday a lot of people were heading for the coast and later in the day we found the camp sites and little holiday places where all the people from the town had clearly gone for their August vacation. It was too grey and cold for swimming but we had a good mooch around Noirmoutier itself and enjoyed another delicious fish lunch. I chickened out of driving over on the 5 km causeway which gets covered at high tide and we went across on the bridge instead!
Tomorrow we head further south to Cadillac on the Gironde, country of the grands vins de Bordeaux. Another hotel from the Orange Chateaux and Hotels Guide book so we'll see how that one pans out. We are both hoping it's as good as it sounds since we've booked for 6 nights!
We drove with the top down into the cloud - we seem to be right on the edge of the weather front dividing North and South, so had to give up in the end and put the roof up! It would have been rude not to visit at least one of the many Caves and we picked Louis Grenelle which was great. The caves themselves were in the hollowed out tunnels under the town and a chilly 12 degrees all year. I managed the French guide really well which pleased me as I find the French TV quite hard to understand though J is fine with it. The guide explained how the sparkling wine is made and we viewed thousands of bottles busy fermenting, then being turned to allow the residue to collect in the neck. Amazingly they then freeze them and remove the metal caps with the residue attached and put a cork in. Of course we had to taste some and bought a bottle of a very delicious dry white and some glasses, though without a fridge I'm not sure we'll get it cold enough to drink. We wandered by the river and then up to the castle before taking a scenic drive along the banks. The Sat Nav was determined to take us back on the motorway but we managed to ignore it and trundle along a more ordinary (and free) road instead.
On Saturday we decided to visit Noirmoutier - famous for its salt production and a favourite of Mum and Dad's from their holidays in France. I had a go at driving which was easier than I thought - I'm more used to driving on the right than the left though it's strange being on the wrong side of the car. Being Saturday a lot of people were heading for the coast and later in the day we found the camp sites and little holiday places where all the people from the town had clearly gone for their August vacation. It was too grey and cold for swimming but we had a good mooch around Noirmoutier itself and enjoyed another delicious fish lunch. I chickened out of driving over on the 5 km causeway which gets covered at high tide and we went across on the bridge instead!
Tomorrow we head further south to Cadillac on the Gironde, country of the grands vins de Bordeaux. Another hotel from the Orange Chateaux and Hotels Guide book so we'll see how that one pans out. We are both hoping it's as good as it sounds since we've booked for 6 nights!
Chateau de Tremblaye
After western Brittany we headed to Cholet and the Pays to La Loire. We'd found a great looking chateau hotel in the orange book though I was decidedly wobbled when the directions took us through a fairly large industrial estate on the outskirts of Cholet! It wasn't helped by the fact that without realising it we'd broken the connection for the sat nav and the battery ran out just as we were making our way through Nantes, leaving me back with the Atlas and the brief directions in the book! Sat Nav is a marvellous invention but it's always good to have a back up! We managed to find a replacement connection in a very helpful car parts shop but it took us half a day of exploring to find the right kind of shop.
I was further wobbled by the chateau itself which appeared to be semi deserted and extremely crumbly though very picturesque. John and a very helpful chef carried all of our luggage up 3 huge flights of stairs to an amazing room right at the top of the chateau with a great view over the grounds and John persuaded me that he was charmed by the whole crumbling chateau experience and happy to stay. I certainly warmed to the place which manages to give the impression of being deep in the countryside and has wonderful grounds, woodland, a pool and a pen of small sheep and chickens. The bathroom contained a bath which is a great luxury in French hotels so I was delighted - though less delighted when the hot water broke down but once they realised it was broken it was quickly fixed. With few guests I usually managed to get the pool to myself each evening for 60 lengths (it's only small) and roads are quiet enough to run without getting disturbed.
Most importantly the food is absolutely amazing - here in this falling down place in the middle of nowhere they have a Maitre Cuisinier who creates the most wonderful meals. The firat night I had the basic Menu du Terroir which was incredible so on Friday night we had the full menu and for Sunday lunch we spent several hours working our way through six fantastic courses - foie gras, turbot, cochon, with accompanying wines. It was truly amazing and pretty much impossible to do anything else for the rest of the day.
I was further wobbled by the chateau itself which appeared to be semi deserted and extremely crumbly though very picturesque. John and a very helpful chef carried all of our luggage up 3 huge flights of stairs to an amazing room right at the top of the chateau with a great view over the grounds and John persuaded me that he was charmed by the whole crumbling chateau experience and happy to stay. I certainly warmed to the place which manages to give the impression of being deep in the countryside and has wonderful grounds, woodland, a pool and a pen of small sheep and chickens. The bathroom contained a bath which is a great luxury in French hotels so I was delighted - though less delighted when the hot water broke down but once they realised it was broken it was quickly fixed. With few guests I usually managed to get the pool to myself each evening for 60 lengths (it's only small) and roads are quiet enough to run without getting disturbed.
Most importantly the food is absolutely amazing - here in this falling down place in the middle of nowhere they have a Maitre Cuisinier who creates the most wonderful meals. The firat night I had the basic Menu du Terroir which was incredible so on Friday night we had the full menu and for Sunday lunch we spent several hours working our way through six fantastic courses - foie gras, turbot, cochon, with accompanying wines. It was truly amazing and pretty much impossible to do anything else for the rest of the day.
Down memory lane
After St Malo I was keen to visit the far North West of Brittany where I spent all of my childhood Augusts and John was happy to indulge my nostalgia. We stopped at St Pol de Leon for some lunch and a look round the market. Home to Brittany's vegetable growing region it was a family tradition to buy artichokes which then travelled round in the back of the car - sometimes flowering rather than being cooked when we got them home! However, we resisted the temptation.
We then went to Brignogan which was where we used to stay for many years. True to form the rain was sweeping in so we didn't spend much time walking around. It hadn't changed much though it seemed much more sleepy and without any of the more upmarket restaurants which I remember. The tide hadn't yet completely gone out of the bay though it was on its way. We drove round to the Plage du Phare which was where we always used to go to enjoy the beach and swim in the very cold and clear sea. Despite the rain it was absolutely beautiful. In the intervening years I have seen many lovely beaches, all over the world but I still don't think there's one to beat the this one for loveliness, a tiny cove, with light grey rocks on both sides and the tiny lighthouse and white sand. The weather is never going to be in its favour but then no doubt adds to its charm. It seems strange to go back to a place for the first time in 28 years - the last time I was in Brignogan I was waiting for my A level results and think that my entire adult life so far has passed since I last saw it and yet it looked exactly the same!
The Sat Nav took us by the most direct route to the Pointe St Mathieu which allowed us to enjoy a very scenic drive through some tiny villages. We couldn't get into to the Hostellerie de Pointe St Mathieu but they've recently opened a little two star hotel right behind the main hotel which was lovely. Our room had huge picture windows looking out over the fields to the Isles d'Ouessant and Molene and the lighthouse at Le Conquet. At this far western, rocky edge of France where the Atlantic meets the Channel the many light houses made a laser light show once it got dark. We had a fabulouse dinner with local langoustines, oysters and fish and retired to our cosy room with the amazing view. Still an unchanged and beautiful place but since the cloud was so low and it was raining I didn't bother to climb the 162 steps to the lighthouse this time and J has never been keen on heights!
We then went to Brignogan which was where we used to stay for many years. True to form the rain was sweeping in so we didn't spend much time walking around. It hadn't changed much though it seemed much more sleepy and without any of the more upmarket restaurants which I remember. The tide hadn't yet completely gone out of the bay though it was on its way. We drove round to the Plage du Phare which was where we always used to go to enjoy the beach and swim in the very cold and clear sea. Despite the rain it was absolutely beautiful. In the intervening years I have seen many lovely beaches, all over the world but I still don't think there's one to beat the this one for loveliness, a tiny cove, with light grey rocks on both sides and the tiny lighthouse and white sand. The weather is never going to be in its favour but then no doubt adds to its charm. It seems strange to go back to a place for the first time in 28 years - the last time I was in Brignogan I was waiting for my A level results and think that my entire adult life so far has passed since I last saw it and yet it looked exactly the same!
The Sat Nav took us by the most direct route to the Pointe St Mathieu which allowed us to enjoy a very scenic drive through some tiny villages. We couldn't get into to the Hostellerie de Pointe St Mathieu but they've recently opened a little two star hotel right behind the main hotel which was lovely. Our room had huge picture windows looking out over the fields to the Isles d'Ouessant and Molene and the lighthouse at Le Conquet. At this far western, rocky edge of France where the Atlantic meets the Channel the many light houses made a laser light show once it got dark. We had a fabulouse dinner with local langoustines, oysters and fish and retired to our cosy room with the amazing view. Still an unchanged and beautiful place but since the cloud was so low and it was raining I didn't bother to climb the 162 steps to the lighthouse this time and J has never been keen on heights!
Monday, 2 August 2010
St Malo
The amazing Condor ferry that does the journey in less than 5 hours though the car deck is something of a challenge! Proof that did brave the freezing sea. John enjoying the boat ride to Dinard and the view from the remparts and an amazing St Malo sunset.
5 days in St Malo
The first stop on our French travels took us to St Malo - a place I haven't visited since I was a child but doesn't seem to have changed much though my memories are a little hazy! We are both enchanted by the place, despite enjoying a great deal of what an old family friend, Monsieur Godoc, used to call 'Breton Sunshine'. That special kind of sunshine which takes to take a reasonable solid and wet form! After Abu Dhabi we relished the ability to walk around without getting bathed in sweat and we have walked miles along the sea front and round the old walled city. The hotel which John found was also charming - le Villefromoy which is in the residential district about a mile and a half from the 'Intra Muros' and a few steps from the Plage de Rochebonne, in a very peaceful area. Our room overlooks a little garden and it very comfy. We've spent the past few days eating, drinking and generally walking around enjoying the views. You forget just how wonderful sea food is when it is so fresh and we've enjoyed mussels, oysters, crab, lobster etc which was absolutely delicious as well as other Breton specialities such as a meal consisting entirely of crepes and some amazing ice cream made with salted butter. As well as huge amounts of pink wine we've also discovered a taste for Breton cider. It's fortunate that the walk to town is a 3 mile round trip or we'd have been looking for new, larger trousers very quickly!
Having watched the hardy souls taking to the sea I did manage to swim yesterday afternoon which was very refreshing! John just took photos as it was certainly breathtaking, especially after the Arabian Gulf which was as hot as a bath last time I tried it! I took another trip down memory lane when we visited Dinard by taking a boat across the bay. I didn't recognize it at all but we had a good walk round, admired the Saturday morning market and enjoyed another delicious lunch.
Tomorrow we continue to rediscover the Brittany of my childhood by heading to the far North West, just for one night to the Pointe St Mathieu, which should be interesting. After that I think we'll be ready to head South and reacquaint ourselves with the sunshine having enjoyed enough of the novelty which is rain. This hotel is a member of a group called Chateau & Hotels and kindly gave us a brochure which is full of similar, small, family owned hotels so we've found one in Cholet (of womble fame for those who grew up in the seventies) where we'll head after Pointe St Mathieu.
Having watched the hardy souls taking to the sea I did manage to swim yesterday afternoon which was very refreshing! John just took photos as it was certainly breathtaking, especially after the Arabian Gulf which was as hot as a bath last time I tried it! I took another trip down memory lane when we visited Dinard by taking a boat across the bay. I didn't recognize it at all but we had a good walk round, admired the Saturday morning market and enjoyed another delicious lunch.
Tomorrow we continue to rediscover the Brittany of my childhood by heading to the far North West, just for one night to the Pointe St Mathieu, which should be interesting. After that I think we'll be ready to head South and reacquaint ourselves with the sunshine having enjoyed enough of the novelty which is rain. This hotel is a member of a group called Chateau & Hotels and kindly gave us a brochure which is full of similar, small, family owned hotels so we've found one in Cholet (of womble fame for those who grew up in the seventies) where we'll head after Pointe St Mathieu.
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