The wines of the lower Rhone

We couldn’t stay so close to this great river without visiting some of the stars of the wine world so we drove across the valley to Gigondas which was a really charming place. Hanging onto the hillside with the ‘Dentelles de Montmirail’ above the village and a view of vineyards as far as the eye could see, it was a wonderful place. We admired the post lady, delivering letters to all the houses up almost vertical streets but still smiling and looking like she was enjoying her job. The village was preparing for several days of festival to wish for a good harvest but it was still quiet early on the Thursday morning when we were wandering round. They’ve made a lovely garden in the grounds of the ruined castle high on the hillside with rosemary, lavender and other scented herbs and rising above the village were even more vineyards.
We drove through Beaumes de Venise, which wasn’t nearly as pretty (but then it’s never been my favourite amongst the sweet wines) and across to Chateauneuf du papes, where we had intended to stay. Another lovely town on the hill and we climbed up for the view and walked round what was left of the castle before having a delicious lunch high up on the hill with a half bottle of the 2006 vintage of the local beverage.
Friday we decided to give the car a rest and enjoy the local scenery and admire the Tavel vineyards, since we had been testing the produce. We spent the morning with boots on walking some of the route du vignobles du Tavel and also visiting the neighbouring village of Lirac and exploring the hillside in search of the troglodytic house (which we never found it was so well hidden). Lirac is not for the purists as they make red, white and rose wine with their grapes, whereas in Tavel they stick to the pink. It is the only pink wine allowed in the 2 and 3 star restaurants of France! The farmers were starting to prepare the vines for the grape picking and, when we left on Saturday morning, they had already started picking some.
I feel so privileged to visit the places where this wine comes from and I think of the pleasure to come. Every time we open a bottle of Gigondas, or Tavel, or Pauillac or any of the other fine wines, I shall have a wealth of happy memories about the charming villages on hillsides or the sunny days spent walking through vineyards and it will make them taste even better.